We didn’t quite get this recipe to you before Burns Night but hey it’s still deepest winter (but the light is creeping in!) and we are Scotophiles. This dish is intensely savoury (and nutritious) – extra-yummy as leftovers the next day. Recipe is from Felicity Cloake who has the dream job of picking through chefs’ recipes to derive the perfect version for her column. Easily veganised with oil replacing butter. Brown lentils worked fine instead of green split peas. Celeriac and horseradish mash was gorgeous on the side: just steam or boil celeriac chunks until tender, then mash with a little butter or oil, salt and pepper, and as much horseradish sauce (from a jar) as your tastebuds demand. Stir-fried shredded cabbage completes the plate.